On Haberdashers

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On Haberdashers…and Their 21st Century Re-Tooling

By Randi Gollin

There will always be that well-dressed man, that fellow who would sooner wear the same high-end threads year after year than buy pedestrian pieces for a song. Resplendent in his finely tailored suit, he’s a 21st-century reminder of Cary Grant. He’s also far more likely to pledge his allegiance to a menswear specialist, be it an e-store like San Francisco-based Taylor Stitch that sells its custom-made shirts online (and books at-home appointments to take clients’ measurements) or a legendary house, like Turnbull & Asser, clothier to H.R.H., The Prince of Wales.

Whether a novice in the throes of sartorial discovery or a born-and-bred aesthete, this gentleman doesn’t want to look like any other Tom, Dick or Harry. Perhaps he’s not the majority, but he’s also not an aberration or an anachronism. And like tastemakers of earlier generations, he’s sometimes willing to pony up bigger bucks for quality clothing. “In times that are tighter, people are spending more to get something that means more to them. It makes sense to them to own something handmade,” says Jake Mueser, one of four designer/owners behind
Against Nature Atelier on Manhattan’s Lower East Side….

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